|
|
Originally published in The Timaru Herald on FRIDAY , 12 NOVEMBER 2004, published online by stuff.co.nz
Liguria at a glance
By WENDY MILL
Mention the Riviera and most people will think of the French Riviera and film stars swanning around in designer clothes and swanky sunglasses. True, this is the home of film festivals and famous people, but its towns are also havens where Parisians escape the cold of winter.
However, there is another Riviera, perhaps slightly less well known and that is the Italian Riviera along the north-west coast of Italy and skirting along the Ligurian Sea. This stretch of coastline is , in most places, as beautiful a coastline as you will see anywhere in the world, and as equally undiscovered in parts.
Dotted with small bays, fishing villages and beaches bedecked in striped canvas and colourful umbrellas, the Ligurian coast is idyllic.
Much of this coastline would not be seen from the road if travelling by car, but the train journey from Genoa to France or from France to Rome will provide a perfect viewpoint as, for much of the way, it follows the often-rugged coastline.
Ventimiglia, at the western end of the Italian Riviera, is the ideal place to settle. Situated at the mouth of the Roya River, this town is the last Italian railway station before entering France.
You could be forgiven for missing the town if you approach Italy from France. Not only is it a mere seven minutes across the border by train, its utilitarian railway station gives no hint of what lies beyond.
At first glance the border town appears to be a somewhat tired seaside resort at the mouth of the Roya River. However, scratch beneath the surface and there is plenty to see and do.
The Romans knew the town as Albintimilium and if you can find them, some impressive ruins including an amphitheatre remain either side of the main rail line into Liguria, just east of the town.
Glasshouses cling precariously to the hills behind the town and capitalise on the climate to grow intensely flavoured vegetables, tomatoes in particular, and flowers. Hence the name Riviera of Flowers.
In July every year, the town holds the Battle of the Flowers. More a competition than a battle, hours of hard work culminate in a procession of floral floats on a grand scale, from which entrants, all vying for the honour of winning, toss flowers out into the crowd of onlookers. This is just one of dozens of colourful traditional festivities that take place throughout Italy and if you happen to be visiting the country for more than a week or two, you would be unlucky not to strike one somewhere in your travels.
On the western bank of the Roya River is the old town, a relic from medieval times with its rather sombre array of buildings tumbling down the hill to the river. However, despite its apparent lack of welcome and its dedication to domesticity – upper rooms are festooned with the day's laundry – the old town is home to the 11-12th century Cattedrale di Santa Maria Assunta with its impressive collection of pre-Romanesque sculpture and the San Michele church, both of which reward anyone who tackles the steep walk up to the old town square.
If gardening is more your passion, then a visit to the Giardini Hanbury near Cape Mortola will be well worth the trip. Not the easiest place to get to – the trains don't stop there – these terraced gardens which slope down towards the sea are home to a rare collection of around 5000 species from around the world.
It is said that Thomas Hanbury, a British tea merchant, founded the gardens in 1898 when he was recuperating in the area, and with the help of his botanist brother, the pair set about creating a sanctuary for exotic plants. The best way to get to the gardens is by bus from Via Cavour in Ventimiglia.
If you miss the stop and get off a bit further along, you can take in the Balzi Rossi or Red Rocks, a series of caves that date back to Stone Age times. These were originally burial chambers, which were first discovered mid-19th century and with some financial help from Prince Albert I of Monaco, exploration continued to reveal skeletons and fossils from the Cro-Magnon period. The Museo Peristorico dei Balzi Rossi brings together a collection of finds from the caves and provides useful background to the significance of the archaeological discovery.
Of course, there's more to life than history and gardening – there's always the shopping. It is here that Ventimiglia truly comes into its own. Every Friday the town wakes up to the weekly markets and these are superb. Selling everything from "designer" sunglasses and household accessories through to fine wool knitwear and children's toys, the Ventimiglia markets are one of Italy's best-kept secrets. Prices reflect this and if the numbers of French people (and their small dogs) who come across the border specifically to shop at the markets are anything to go by, it is well worth planning for a Friday in Ventimiglia.
If days at the stony beach or man-made "new" beaches have worn thin and you feel like exploring, Ventimiglia also provides an excellent base for journeying into the Roya and Nervia valleys to visit Dolceaqua, Saorge, Tende and other enchanting hill towns. Buses provide a reasonably regular service to such towns, but if you are driving, take particular care, as the roads are narrow and winding.
Dolceaqua in the Nervia Valley, which runs parallel to the Roya Valley, is a picturesque hillside town, made famous by Monet when he spent time in the area and painted the village in 1884. Its distinctive arched bridge across the Nervia River makes it easily identifiable among the many charming hill towns of the hinterland. Here a maze of steep, narrow cobbled lanes leads you up to ruins of a castle. In spring and early summer the remains of the natural stone walls and ramparts provide clefts in which brilliant red poppies grow wild.
The Ligurian hinterland is also home to the Nervia oasis, recognised and run by the World Wildlife Fund and is a protected area. Home to around 140 different bird species and some 47 different plant families it is considered to be a birdwatcher's paradise. Even as you watch fish swimming in the Nervia River further upstream, you cannot help but notice the abundance of river and bird life around you.
Whether your trip to Italy is focused on rest and relaxation, exploring the outdoors, following in the footsteps of the ancients, feasting on regional delicacies or simply giving the credit card an outing to remember, the Ligurian region has it all – and, for Francophiles, Ventimiglia provides an ideal, and less expensive base for exploring similarly enchanting areas of southern France.
A word of warning, however, avoid Monaco Grand Prix weekend when prices throughout the Mediterranean region soar to astronomical heights and the area is invaded by scarlet t-shirted, flag waving motor racing enthusiasts from all over the world.
|
|
|
|
|
belongs to one of the most beautiful coasts of Europe and is about one hour drive from Milan. Coming from Genoa towards France the "Riviera of Flowers" with its sun, beaches, sea, mountains and culinary specialites await you. For information concerning arrival by plane, train and automobile, click
| Up to 300 sunny days. Liguria has a mild throughout the year, with low precipitation. The Rivera of Flowers is a region with the most hours of sun a year.
| and good water quality
Bandiera Blu
| | | Numerous possiblities for ranging from the largest, most beautiful aquarium in Europe to the Vel d`Epoca.
| that allow you to learn in a beautiful and relaxing environment. | | © 2000 - 2008 vacation villas & ferienhäuser in ligurien errors and change excepted, offer not binding
Liguria holiday vacation rental appartment villa home house Italy cottage self catering Italian Riviera |
|
